Cusco, Peru

Country: Peru

City: Cusco

Duration: 4 days

Accommodation:  Milhouse Hostel

Cusco in Peru is the ancient Inca capital and is steeped in Inca and Spanish history and culture. It is a beautiful city and has a lot to offer tourists including striking churches, markets and shops, restaurants and bars and it is also the place where people prepare for and rest after the Inca Trail.  

When we got to Cusco, we too had to get ready for the Inca Trail. We paid for the remainder of our trip and collected the empty bags that we needed for the trek in the Llama Path office. We also adjusted to the altitude by strolling around the city, jumping in and out of different shops and markets buying souvenirs and paintings.

We enjoyed the Free Walking Tour in La Paz so much that we decided to do one again here in Cusco. Unfortunately it was not as good or as informative. I did enjoy wandering through the cobbled streets though and being shown the good viewpoints. We saw the Cristo Blanco (White Christ) who overlooks the city and the ancient carved stone walls of the city. We also stopped in a small shop selling local instruments. It was lovely to hear some cultural music.

The main square in Cusco, Plaza de Armas, has many Spanish colonial buildings but this square used to part of the area that was once the Great Inca Square, called Haukaypata. It was lovely to walk around and there were nice gardens and a fountain in the centre of the square. The cathedral sat impressively at one end and there were some lovely restaurants surrounding the square, including one of my favourites, Inka Grill. Just off the square was Bambu, a gorgeous sushi and noodle bar which I would recommend also. And close by was Jack's Cafe Bar, a must for breakfast.

We also went to Choco Museo, a chocolate museum, factory and cafeteria and enjoyed some yummy cake and hot chocolate. You could also participate in a chocolate workshop there.

After the Inca Trail we were dropped back to Cusco where we rested for a day before heading on to Arequipa to do another trek, the Colca Canyon Trek!

Puno and the Uros Floating Islands on Lake Titicaca, Peru

Country: Peru

City: Puno

Duration: 1 day

We arrived in Peru! Our first pit stop was Puno. We had just come by bus from Copacabana in Bolivia that morning and were continuing onto Cusco that night.

Johnny and I took a half day tour of the Uros Floating Islands from the port in Puno. The Uros Floating Islands on Lake Titicaca are such a unique tourist destination. These floating islands are home to the Uros tribe, one which pre-dates the Incan civilization.

The few hundred people living on 40+ islands use totora reeds which grow in the lake to make (and re-make) their islands, along with their homes and boats. The reeds at the bottom of the islands rot away fairly quickly and so every few months a new layer of reeds needs to be added to the top of the island. To prevent the island from floating away from the rest of the community, it is anchored with ropes attached to sticks which are driven down into the bottom of the lake. It is believed that the original purpose to living on these islands was for defence. They were away from the mainland and if a threat arose, they could pull up the anchors and float away! The Uro people continue living by fishing, weaving and now, tourism.

We set sail and after about 30mins in our boat, we arrived at the first of two islands that we were going to visit. The people on the island sang us a song when we arrived and showed us their reed huts and told us some stories.

We then took a short boat ride in their man made reed boats around some of the islands.

Before leaving we were asked if we wanted to purchase any of their handmade crafts! We then headed off to another island where we could get a drink or our passport stamped! It was very touristy but I still enjoyed it as I was fascinated by the structure of the islands and I knew there were many islands untouched by tourism and I enjoying imagining what life was like for them.

Back in Puno, we had a quick look about and got some dinner and a one of a kind taxi back to the bus station. We were heading north to Cusco.

Some traditional music during dinner

How small and random is this three wheeled taxi!?

Copacabana and Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca, Bolivia

Country: Bolivia
Attraction: Lake Titicaca

Copacabana 1 day/1 night
Accommodation: Hotel La Cupla

Isla del Sol – 1 day/1 night
Accommodation: Imperio del Sol

Lake Titicaca is nestled between Peru and Bolivia. It is the largest lake in South America in terms of body of water and its sits at 3,800m above sea level. Copacabana is the main Bolivian town on the southern shore of Lake Titicaca and it is the gateway to visit some of the islands on Lake Titicaca such as Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna.

Johnny and I arrived in Copacabana after a bus and a boat ride. Once we found accommodation for the night we wondered around the town. We strolled through the usual Bolivian markets and bought some more touristy souvenirs! We entered the Cathedral and said a prayer before walking up to Cerro Calvario, a viewpoint up a hill at the north end of the beach. There was a fabulous view of the town and Lake Titicaca from up there and we stayed to watch the sun set.

Back at our accommodation, we told the owner that we would like to use the hot tub, so he warmed it up for us and we had the most surreal night lazing around in the hot tub and looking up at the stars and out over the lake and town.
The next morning we headed down to the beach to get our boat to Isla del Sol. (Island of the Sun) Our boat dropped us off at the eastern side of the island at Challapampa. There were no cars on Isla del Sol or paved roads, so the only way to get around was by foot. We made our way to the north of the island, past beaches, a small museum housing Inca relics, a local school and incredible scenery. The view of the lake was outstanding.

We then started our trek down the centre of the island to Yumani where we would spend the night. It took a few hours in total and it was such a beautiful walk.

When we reached the main village at the Southern end of the island, we saw the local farmers, some tending to their sheep and others with their donkeys.

There was a party with all the locals down at the church. I heard it was an anniversary of an older couple in the community. They were traditionally dressed and were enjoying some dancing and drinking. It was great to watch. 

In such a small community, I felt guilty for being there and I felt sorry for the local people with all these tourists on their island every day, who were trying to live a way of life that seemed unchanged for generations. But I suppose some had come to depend on tourism to make a living (the taxes we pay to walk the roads, the restaurants and accommodations)

We walked around the village (up and down so many steps, still hard to do with the altitude) and later in the evening I walked around the southern tip of the island. It was so peaceful and beautiful. I could see the Andes across the lake.

We went to a local restaurant for dinner that night and we witnessed the best sunset we had ever seen.

That night Johnny and I both realised how burnt we had gotten that day. My legs and back were scalded and Johnny’s were the same. It was the most uncomfortable night’s sleep ever.

We stayed in a room that night that was about 2 euro for the both of us! It was also the most basic but what a view from the room…..!

I woke up before sunrise and grabbed the camera and headed outside. I watched the sun come up and I felt like I was the only person on the island! (Johnny chose to stay in bed!)

We made our way down to the port and waited to be collected. It was such a magical little trip!