Tuesday, 19 August 2014

La Paz, Bolivia

Country: Bolivia

City: La Paz

Duration: 5 days (some were resting days)

Accommodation: Loki Hostel


La Paz in Western Bolivia is one of the highest cities in the world at an elevation of 3,500m and 4,000m in Al Alto by the airport! It was built in a canyon that was created by the Choqueyapu River.


Day 1:

The bus from Uyuni to La Paz was the worst journey I have ever experienced! It was a terribly bumpy road for most of the night and poor Johnny was in the toilet getting sick for most of it! When we arrived at the bus station, I noticed again how hard it was to breathe. It's so important that you acclimatise to the altitude. My heart was beating so hard at times and often I had a pain in my chest/neck when going up stairs or walking uphill. So when we checked into our hostel, we went to bed for most of the day, only rising to get food and watch the second last episode (ever) of Breaking Bad! :D

Day 2:
After a refreshing day and night's sleep, we decided to check out La Paz by a free walking tour called Red Cap Walking Tours. (You just tip at the end.) We joined 2 tour guides and a handful of other tourists in the San Pedro Square opposite San Pedro Prison. 

Johnny at the time was reading the book 'Marching Powder', a story of Thomas McFadden, a convicted English drug trafficker and inmate at San Pedro Prison who ran prison tours to tourists! The author of the book, Rusty Young, joined one of the tours one day whilst visiting La Paz and he and Thomas hit it off and the two got a great idea for a book. Rusty then bribed the prison guards to let him stay in the prison and he shared a cell with Thomas for three months while he wrote about Thomas's experiences in prison and the unusual way that it is run! Our guides told us that the inmates run the prison themselves and that they have jobs and also have to rent their cells. So Johnny was very excited to be standing across the road from the prison and looking in at the inmates through the open front door! (Note: It is no longer safe to do a prison tour)

Our tour continued and we walked through Rodriguez Market, a vibrant street market where you could literally buy anything!


We then came across the Witches Market, where the culture of the Aymara people (native people of Bolivia) is still much alive. The colourful stalls sold dried llama fetuses and dried frogs for Aymara rituals, as well as herbs, remedies and potions. The llama fetuses are bought and buried under the foundation of a new house to honor Pachamama, the Aymara's goddess/mother earth.

 Next on the tour was San Francisco Church and Plaza. On our free time after the tour was over, we revisited and went up to the Bell Tower and down to the catacombs.



We stopped and sat in Plaza Murillo which is the centre of Bolivian politics and it is where the president's house is situated, although he doesn't live there due to the fact that so many previous presidents have been killed and the building is very open in this square!


We finished our tour on the top floor of Hotel Presidente, where you could see the entire city below.


That night we ate in The Star of India, yummy!

Day 3:
After booking flights to Rurrenabaque, we walked to a nearby view point to see more sights of the city. 
We walked to Jaen St to visit some museums that we read about but everywhere was closed as it was Sunday. 
We visited an art gallery and continued onto Plaza Alonso de Mendoza. We looked around the shops and we came across a music band and traditional dancers. (I heard it was Tourist Day!?) and I got dragged in to dance with them! 
We went around the markets again and we bought some stone figures from the witches market, one of which was to keep us safe while travelling. We also took a closer look at San Pedro Prison. That night we took a taxi to a gorgeous restaurant, Chalet la Suisse.

*The next morning we flew to Rurrenabaque in the Amazon Rainforest for a couple of days.

Day 4/5:
After a few days in the jungle, we flew back to La Paz and stayed in Loki again for two nights to recover and to wash all our smelly clothes from the trip! The next day, we visited the markets...again! We ate in a lovely Asian restaurant called 'Maphrao On' that did a good masaman curry!


The following day we departed from La Paz to Copacabana, where we would get a boat to Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca. 




Friday, 1 August 2014

Salar de Uyuni Tour (Salt Flats Tour) Bolivia

Country: Bolivia

Salar de Uyuni Tour (Salt Flats Tour)

Duration: 4 Days

The number one priority on most traveller’s list to do in Bolivia is the Salar de Uyuni Tour. Salar de Uyuni in southwest Bolivia is the world's largest salt flat. It covers 12,000 sq km and is 3653m above sea level. (Altitude tablets recommended!) It was created when a prehistoric lake dried up, leaving a salty crust behind.

While all tours do indeed visit the Salt Flats, which is the supposed highlight of the tour, that is only part of either a three or four day trip. The tour could easily be called ‘A Tour of South West Bolivia’

There are many companies that do a salt flats tour and there are three different routes, depending on the direction or your travels, budget and preference. You can go from Uyuni back to Uyuni, San Pedro de Atacama in Chile to Uyuni, or what we did, Tupiza to Uyuni.

Take great care in choosing which tour operator to go with when visiting the salt flats. We heard many stories about fatal accidents due to unsafe vehicles and drunk drivers. I think you get what you pay for with these tours. The company we chose was Tupiza Tours and we had no problems. Our 4x4 didn't break down or loose a tyre mid driving and our driver Freddie was sober for the entire trip (although he spoke no English and we spoke no Spanish! You can pay extra for an English guide. I would recommend this.) The other tourists in your 4x4 will also hugely dictate how enjoyable your tour is (as you spend 24/7 together.) We were lucky and had a lovely Belfast couple with us and we became good friends!
Johnny sitting in the front as he gets travel sickness and he had bad altitude sickness (again)

You cover a lot of ground (mainly dirt tracks) on this trip and see numerous landscapes, lagoons, wildlife, mountains, geothermal activity, and of course, the salt flats themselves.

Here are a collection of the highlights for me. (The Salt Flats are on Day 4.)


Day One:
Canyons, eroded rock and winding roads
 
Puebla Fantasma
An old town in ruins (4690m high!) 

Our basic accommodation!
We also slept in layers of our clothes and a woolly hat! We were not there at the coldest time of the year either. Make sure you bring or rent a sleeping bag.

DayTwo:
Pink flamingos in Laguna Hedionda


Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon)
Its colour is due to the lead, copper and other heavy metals from the nearby mountains.

A llama farm


The llamas had cute, colourful tags!

A thermal pool with incredible scenery
 This geothermal “hot tub” was so warm even though there was such a cold wind which made it hard to strip off and get in, and even harder to get out of!

Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa 
(National Park)


Unique landscape

Geysers
We experienced geysers for the first time and saw the nearby volcano whose underground lava river caused the steam to rise and mud to bubble.

Geysers

Boiling Mud Pools

Volcano Ollague
 A semi active volcano that is predicted to erupt at some stage in the next 20 years. 

Ice formations
 (Near the volcano and geysers! How strange!)

Laguna Colorada (Red Lagoon)
The colour is due to the algae that live in it.

Day Three:
The 'Stone Tree'
Desert Roads and Mountains

More beautiful lakes and mountains

Another lake filled with flamingos 


Train Tracks Over Salar de Chiquana 
These tracks run from Uyuni in Bolivia to Calama in Chile but are not in use anymore.

The Salt Hotel
This was our final night and the best in terms of accommodation.  The walls, the base of bed, the tables, the chairs…everything was made from salt! 

Salt bricks and bed!

Day Four:
The Salt Flats


The Salt Crust

Bolivians are allowed to mine the salt on the edge of the flats. You can see the mounds of salt behind us in this selfie!

A Salt Flats island
This island is home to giant ancient cacti and we had 360 degree panoramic views of the Salt Flats


The Train Cemetery in Uyuni
The trains were mostly used by the mining companies. In the 1940s, the mining industry collapsed, partly because of mineral depletion. Many trains were abandoned, producing the train cemetery.

The train cemetery marked the last stop on our trip. It was an excellent tour and I loved every minute of it! All that was left to do was wait around for the night bus to La Paz in Western Bolivia. (What was to be the roughest bus journey we ever experienced!)


Tips for surviving the Salar de Uyuni Tour!

Bring:
  1. Wet wipes and dry shampoo as you don't shower for the duration of the tour!
  2. Plenty of warm clothes and a sleeping bag as it's freezing at night time
  3. A torch as electricity (if any) is very limited at the accommodations
  4. A spare battery for your camera again due to electricity. I kept my battery warm in my pocket at night as I heard this preserves your battery for longer! (I don't know how true that is though!)
  5. Some small change for entry into parks, shops (we did come across one tiny shop in 4 days!) and the markets at the entrance to the salt flats
  6. Sunglasses as the salt flats are blinding!
  7. Toilet paper
  8. Altitude tablets/coca leaves to chew on or make tea with, as the altitude is very high
  9. Suncream. Although the winds can be cold, it can also be very sunny and Johnny got scalded on the last day.
  10. A swim suite for the dip in the thermal pool

Something to note:
We did the Salar de Uyuni Tour during the dry season. I would recommend to visit during this time as the nights are not half as cold and we had no rain. During the wet season, you cannot visit as much of the Salt Flats because of the rain water. The only advantage of visiting during the wet season is that you see the Salt Flats with the layer of water on the surface, creating a mirror image. You can see fabulous photos of these on the internet.